From Shiojiri, 2.5 hrs by train from Tokyo, we'll ride the 400-year-old Nakasendo highway that linked Edo and Kyoto. After meeting a traditional comb artisan in the post station of Naraijuku, we try green tofu in the village of Achi, and amid the rice fields of the Ina Basin, discover a tradition of crafting rice straw for use in everything from sumo rings to Shinto rituals. Climbing into the mountains, we see salt made from hot spring water, and at the southern tip of Nagano Prefecture, we scale the steep slopes of a tea plantation.
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